Journal 34 Page 1 December 25, 1869
         

[on inside front cover:]

1. Dante-

2. Petrarch-

3. Boccacio-

4. Ariosto-

5. Arentino-

6. Lorenzo de Medici.

7. Vittorio Colonna. - Port-Say'eed-

[also notes a description of the game of Morra that she found in "Roba di Roma."]

Book Number Ten

of

European Notes.

Christmas at Rome.

December 25, 1869

We rose at a quarter before six o'clock A.M;-donned the prescribed "black silk with veil," took opera glassprayer book & copy of "Lives of Italian Poets" to read in case the waiting hours pass heavily, and after a gas-­light breakfast sally out into the oozy Roman streets. Santa Bibiana's "forty days & a week" of rainy weather have nearly expired-so our swart old chamber-maid tells us-but that they have not altogether the lowering heavens & steamy earth betoken. Forcible Mr. Coann (who has spent all night at St. Peter's watching over his wayward girls who were determined to hear the "Pastorales") has returned to the cozy apartments in Via dei due Macelli & we find the promised carriage at the door & Mr. & Mrs. C. & Perley swallowing their coffee in haste. Preliminaries arranged off we go to St. Peter's, imperious dragoons sending us around by the toll-bridge as usual upon state occasions. From the Castle of St. Angelo are waving the straw- colored flag, the rich escutcheon of the Pope & the painted umbrella with crossed keys under it that we see over the lottery offices. Arrived in the great piazza where preside the foamy fountains we find that other pageant-loving folk have out-timed us & only by a brisk assault do we win eligible places in the tribunes-which, being interpreted are great pens on a level with the church pavement& beneath the dome whence one can get dissatisfying peeps at the service in the Tribuna beyond. My place was between Old England & Young America-personified by a sour-faced dame who when I mildly enquired the meaning of some peculiarly odd features in the mass replied triumphantly "I assure you Miss I've seen it a great many times & haven't the least idea what it means-those things are of no consequence whatever" & a riched dressed young lady from New York who arrived only last night & had "sat up" to attend the midnight mass "& who assured me that she was "just dead" & that "if in any one-horse