Journal 38 Page 1 April 18, 1870

[written on inside front cover in pencil:][Greek letters approximating iereos] (name on a priest's chair in Theatre of Bacchus) [Greek letters approximating lithophoroy]- "Atlantic" for 1869 article on the Classic godesses. (Miss S.)

[Greek letters approximating lithophoroy]

Ancient Greeks fair haired & blue eyed?

Bema & Areopagus always as now in appearance?

Why Latin Cross on Cathedral?

"Archaic style"? (Soldier of Marathon-temple of Theseus.) Marble colored.

"Nike?" p. 35 Baedeker's Athens Demeter=Ceres-227 Fr. Cyclo.



No. 14 of European Notes. Greece.

April 18, 1870

Athens. Utterly dispairing of ever "bringing up" my journal on this wonderful tour where I am crammed with impressions as grape with juice. I fall back upon the "itemizer" after the manner of wide-awake Dr. Goodwin-a safe man to follow if not "to tie to" (as Chevalier Wilson expresses it;)-Monday morning at about nine o'clock, after rolling & rolling, pitching & pitching all night in the little steamer Schild & in a stateroom with four others & with dreams thoroughly dislocated, we "hove in view" of the Piraeus, the harbor of Athens, & five miles distant, the Acropolis gleamed upon us-yes, gleamed, even through the thick rain-drops that have got into a habit of falling in these Levantine waters.

It is very much of a moment in one's life, I hold, when he looks first upon the birth place of the Arts-the capital of a heroic land-even though its glory is departed & its children are enslaved. For what has been, lives, to the thoughtful mind as really as what is. Nay, what has been claims even a more assured reality-& is as much more really real than the intangible what is, as a fossil butterfly is more palpable than the thin-winged creature that skims the air almost unseen & quite impossible to get hold of.

And it happened that when those stout armed swarthy faced Greek boatmen took us in charge, & tumbled us like so much merchandize into their little boats & rushed us off to the shore, I saw instead of them a blue eyed, fair haired race-the same to whose dreams were given those visions of Minerva & of Venus which a colder age crystallized into religion;-& before me on these azure waves loomedthe fleet of Xerxes driven by Themistocles & his helmeted warriors awayfrom the Paradise they had menaced.

A pleasant carriage ride along the line of wall built by the