Journal 39 Page 1 April 23, 1870

[inside front cover:]

Constantinople is the City of Cypress trees.

-Scutari-The life of Hadji Baba Marmora-by Morian Sooltan - Crimean-Balaklava- Kay (quay)

No. 15 of European Notes.

Street-Notes in Constantinople.

April 23, 1870

First ride. Tremendous carriage & huge horses & fezed driver-all for 20 francs per day. Guide's name-Triantaphilos Pappadopoulos. Saw the first chaise a porteur in use in the streets.

View over the Golden Horn-arsenal in the distance-Admiralty nearby-men of war in the heart of the city. Cypress trees of cemetery. Tarboosh=priest; flower=woman. fez=ordinary men; star=governmental officer.

women's veils less absurd than usual. Streets like going up & down stairs. Houses projecting over the streets. Soup-shop with enormous smoking caldron & man ladling out to passers by for a consideration. Across a long wooden bridge like those we have in Chicago. Horses trotting across-great ships waiting to pass- Bosphorus on our left-on our right the Golden Horn. Five women in a group-one in red, another in green, 3d in brown 4th black 5th ash color-all with white "illusion" veils & eyes only visible. Curious, beautiful shut up fountain at street corner. We enter Stamboul, pass the Sublime Porte (from wh. the government takes its name) & enter the Seraglio-great open space full of tall cypresses-surrounded by crenulated wall & towers. Court dirty & bad-smelling.

-Next court much finer-grassy with sweet English daisies which I gather. Column of Theodosius-a single [?] Corinthian pillar with a finer beside it-viz a tall cypress tree. We come In sight of Scutari-"Where was Florence Nightingale's hospital?" is the first & simeltaneous question. There is something noble in humanity after all-which so universally loves & applauds a character like that!

Sublime Porte again (old one.) 4 projections above it for heads of executed prisoners of state. Places in front for decapitation- rude fragments of stone.

Cypher of the Sultan & other inscriptions before the gate. Looks inviting beyond the gate & its fifty guards-principally because we are not permitted to enter!

White buildings & cypress trees "la dedans." Six soldiers gather around me as I stand writing & gaping in, 6 soldiers & one woman