Journal 40 Page 1 April 25, 1870

[inside the front cover:]


Dr. L. thinks an unabridged Gibbon the best History of Constantinople.

nargileh' (accent on the last.)

vizier (ve-zeer')

Scott's "Talisman"-scene in Constantinople.

No. 16 of European Notes.

Street Notes in Constantinople.

April 25, 1870

Coming down the [...] of Galata we pass some black, hideous looking fellows whom Dr. Long describes to us as "Guardians of the Fair." (Eunuchs.)

-At table d'hote only one theme-the murdered travelers-the bloody brigands-"What will England do?" "Take away the Jouisan [?] Islands" responds the doughty English major who has been twice up the Nile spending three months each time & can not conceive why I can not conceive of enjoying [?] the lazy [?] trip-much less its repetition. We exchange bazar experiences with the Major-& the keen-eyed American gentleman opposite & make lists of the best shops for bashliks, burnouses, amber, otto of roses, jasmin, Broussa silks, velvet jackets embroidered with gold thread &c.

-All night tormented by a Turkish flea & dreams of brigands.

April 26, 1870

Long delay at the hotel, looking at India shawls, ugly as sin, at beautiful velvet jackets, ties, purses &c, all dreadfully dear. The beautiful English lady-wife of the Suez engineer looks over these lovely trifles with tireless zest & says in her soft voice: "Oh, John how pretty this neck tie is-I wish that I might have it" & the Englishman answers from his lofty attitude of six feet & matrimonial authority: "You'll get nothing more-I wonder you've the cheek to ask it!" Whereupon her gentle eyes drop & her cheek crimsons & the stock of the tall English man tumbles with us to the zero point, though we had liked him very much, before. Such trifles as these preach eloquent sermons on the Woman Question- sermons not lost on me.

-We walk over to Stamboul through streets that are a ceaseless (changeful) study. We pass two humble [?] funerals of the Mahommedans, carried headfirst to their tombs;-see an unweildy Armenian dance to the tune of drum & fife. (?) We cross the Golden Horn in a shaky caique, the guide reproving Sister Paine for writing, even, for fear she would upset the boat! We go through a fruit & nut market having the greatest variety I have ever seen & the best arranged. Our jaws