Journal 40, page 05

nave tumbledd but remained held together by the mortar.-another great cypress grove full of graves-tents & chairs in great abundance indicate recent festivities. Men & women always separate in their amusements.

Lunch in a Turkish coffee-House-on the broad covered balcony before it with twenty natives (men of course) around us.

We send our plates six times for macaroons, after in vain trying to eat two kinds of Turkish cake offered us. Mrs. P. & I drink each two cups of coffee, one third "settlings" (in fine powder.) Dr. L. smokes the narghileh & explains to us its method. The tobacco is Persian & is called "tombiki." It is wet to make it less powerful & is placed under coals. One breathes the smoke into one's lungs after it has passed through water. I did so & found it very agreeable.

Two pretty Greek girls pass by us, bare headed, behind another, leaning on the arm of a goodlooking young Greek-her brother or husband. Dr. L. "You would never see a Turk in that attitude. They are ashamed to be seen with women. I can give you in one sentence the key to their opinion of women & of the only relation they recognize: When a Turk mentions his family to another or to a European (which he rarely does) it is invariably with the prefatory remark "I beg you pardon-but I have a wife"! (i.e. It may surprise you that a man who professes to be a gentleman should sustain so carnal a relation but, nevertheless, begging your pardon-I have a wife"!- That tells the whole story!-

The First word on a tombstone means "One upon whom God has had mercy." This word is always used when speaking of a deceased Mahommedan but of no other.

Greek cemetery-on the way to Palace of Belisarius. Stones all horizontal. One man a barber [?]-looking glass cut above his epitaph! Bad spelling of [?] epitaphs-there rests the servant of God-Hadji (so called because he has made the pilgrimage to Jerusalem.

Blacquermal [?] Palace. Dr. L. points out the little gate by wh. through treachery the Turks entered & took the city. Smallest stones I ever saw in an ancient city wall. What is called the palace was merely a kiosk. Remainder of bronze ornamentation-splendid view from rear window of the ruin. Brick in little tasteful patterns-Called also the Palace of Belisarius. Brick work very noticeable. First time we have seen it.

Greek cemetery [............ ]ced by the road side.

[sketch of 5 implements for cooking, probably shapes on a tombstone. By the last one is written:] =ladle [?].

1865

0+0 (Places for little birds to drink hollowed out in the marble

[a drawing of a looking glass shape next to which is written:] =Barber